Ubud: Far from the maddening crowds in Bali

Must confess it was only after reading Eat, Love, Pray that I set my heart on Ubud. For sheer ignorance , I knew nothing beyond Bali in Indonesia. So, it was Elizabeth Gilbert who introduced me to this tiny district in Bali. Away from the maddening crowd of bikini and skimpy sarong-clad tourists of Bali, Ubud is different. Being the centre of art and culture, it draws a different kind of tourist. The types who have some inclination for art even if they aren’t real connoisseurs.
Besides, it’s quieter and charming . On the streets, you’ll find pretty Balinese women in their traditional gear going about their daily routine. For all who care, Ubud is the soul of Indonesia while Bali can pass off as the flesh/body of Indonesia.
Set in the midst of rice fields and greenery, it’s a perfect getaway even for residents of Bali who drive down (just an hour away) to soak in the calm atmosphere away from noisy night revelers . When I finally arrived, I did look for the famous medicine man that Gilbert had referred to in her book. I had questions ready in my mind and hoped to find my answers in the wisdom of this man. But my guide disappointed me when he refused to take me one afternoon.
I was told that Ketut Liyer, the medicine man, is very particular and would not see people just like that. I needed at least a week to a month to get an appointment! That too, subject to his health which has become frail of late.

Obviously, I didn’t stand a chance so I decided to soak in Ubud’s beautiful arty atmosphere instead . But wherever I went, people weren’t willing to let me forget him. They were more than willing to part with information on this important man who has become a tourist attraction. I realized how Ketut has become even more popular after the book has become a Julia Roberts-starrer .

One café owner told me that Ketut has many overseas visitors everyday. Another volunteered to inform me that Ketut’s family is fiercely protective about him and would not even let him act in the movie. Apparently, someone else had to play his role!

Anyway, I already had an agenda: to scout for affordable art. And it helped that I took tips from friends who already did the Ubud track. For instance, I knew exactly where to head when I wanted to feast on sumptuous authentic Balinese fare.

Yes, for that unforgettable meal of Babi Guling or traditional roasted suckling pig, I wasted no time in locating Ibu Oka, a little eatery that specializes in it. The lunchtime line only confirms its popularity. Am told, the eatery has two pigs a day and shuts shop when the supply run out. That way, only fresh food is served!

I also knew how and where to buy paintings and negotiate the right price. With these handy tips in mind, most of my days were spent wandering around the street looking for appropriate art with my husband. And even though our guide was adamant on taking us to galleries for his own selfish reasons, we still had our way.

So we began with the art villages around Ubud known for stone and wood craft. In fact these are the best things about Ubud. Our first stop was Batubulan, known for stone art, just 20 minutes off Ubud. There are about 4000 villagers here and going by the looks of it, every home must have an artist or two.

Ubud known for stone and wood craft. In fact these are the best things about Ubud. Our first stop was Batubulan, known for stone art, just 20 minutes off Ubud. There are about 4000 villagers here and going by the looks of it, every home must have an artist or two.

THE FINE ART OF BARGAINING!
All along the street there are rows of stone sculptures on display. Sculptures of Buddha crafted in lava stone or Ganeshas intricately crafted in sandstone... Even though I knew I would never be able to take home those beautiful pieces, I visited many boutique-cum-residences along the street.

It’s a common to see family members bond over work. One member would sharpen his tool while the other would slowly rub the unfinished stone to soften and giveit a final shape. And one member would be entertaining the guests’ many queries. That the Balinese are an enterprising lot becomes quite clear!

In another adjoining village called Mas, which is said to be where the modern wood carving of Bali orginated , I was immediately in awe of what I saw. Again there were rows of wood carvings as if in an exhibition of masterpieces . Nearly every home had a woodcarving workshop . I surveyed as many pieces I possibly could and felt contented doing that.
Unlike Batubulan and Mas, Ubud hasn’t specialized in just one form of art, which makes it easy for shoppers. It has a mix: paintings (contemporary and traditional), plenty of wood carvings and, of course, galleries stocking all sorts of art.
And the navigable size of Ubud helps. It’s easy to explore by walking around. The first day I went around the place in a hired taxi with a guide just to know my way around. The second and third day I was on my own exploring places and wandering around. I had also gotten rid of my guide who only wanted to take me to a certain art gallery!

he main town was quite crowded with tourists looking for things and haggling for best bargains. At the famous Pasar Seni, a buzzing art market, I picked up various sizes of oil-on-canvas . That too, after a lengthy session of bargaining with the artist who was also managing the store at the same time! I went right past all the sovenior shops selling batik tee shirts, bags and what not; instead I focused on all kinds of paintings.

A word of caution, however, language can be quite a barrier especially when negotiating prices! But I soon figured out how to go about this. For instance, when I went to a gallery and liked a particular painting of a baby monk in maroon rope resting on an elephant, I asked for a calculator and asked them to quote their figure in dollars.

hey happily put down their price. If that price was agreeable to me, I would nod my head or else I’d take the calculator and put down my figure. They would reciprocate in the same manner. If they agreed, they would say “okay” ; if not, they would smile and say sorry and then put down their figure!
One thing I noticed was that the Balinese are soft spoken and utterly polite. Even if you ramble into their shop and buy nothing at the end of nearly an hour’s exercise of literally checking out everything , they are most likely to smile and say a gracious thank you. But street hawkers are like leeches!

Make a mistake of even eying their products and you commit to buy the piece. It happened to me. My fault was eying a beautifully hand crafted wooden toy bicycle. I parted with ten dollars reluctantly . And now the memory of Ubud lies in that handcrafted bicycle that stands on my study table at home. But the paintings I lugged back by hand now grace many more corners of my home!

https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/travel/ubud-far-from-the-madding-crowds-in-bali/articleshow/6334716.cms
The Economics Times, August 19, 2010